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J.A.K. Martyn : ウィキペディア英語版
John Martyn (schoolmaster)

John A. K. Martyn OBE Padma Shri (more commonly known as J. A. K. Martyn) (1903–1984), was an English schoolmaster, scholar, academic and a distinguished British Himalayan mountaineer.
==Career==
In 1935, John Martyn accompanied Arthur Foot to India to establish the teaching staff of The Doon School, a newly opened boarding school for Indian boys.〔Michael Shaw, ''In Search of Time Wasted: Peregrinations from Seil Island'' (AuthorHouse, 2008), (p. 22 )〕
Martyn had previously taught at Harrow School in England for ten years before he moved to India.〔(About John Martyn )〕 In Doon, he was given the post of Deputy Headmaster, which he kept till 1948. Shortly after the British withdrawal from India in 1947, Foot left Dehradun to take up the headship of Ottershaw School, and Martyn succeeded him to become the second headmaster of the Doon School. Martyn served in Doon for 31 years, 18 of those as the Headmaster, thus becoming one of the longest serving schoolmasters in the school's history.
Apart from teaching, Martyn was very keen on mountaineering, and was part of the expedition team to Trisul with pioneers like Jack Gibson, Gurdial Singh and Nandu Jayal.〔http://jtmgibson.typepad.com/JTMG_HJ_martyn.pdf〕 He, along with Jack Gibson, climbed Bandarpunch with Tenzing Norgay, who later became the first man to climb Mt. Everest.〔(IN MEMORIAM | Himalayan Club )〕

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